Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Venice. Show all posts

Monday, June 20, 2011

Basilica San Marco

Would you hate me if I didn't write a long blog post about St. Mark's? Because it didn't really do anything for me. I got lost and walked in the wrong end of the building because it's right by the Patrician's palace and that has a huge museum that I walked around in FOREVER before making it to the line and then I kinda sorta ducked under the ropes because no one was around to tell me where to go and I just figured I'd head in and they got the couple that came in before me because they had a backpack but I just had my purse so I slipped in with this tour group and then wandered around inside except there's not much to see because all the interesting stuff, even one of the side altars, cost money and I was spending entirely too much on my hostel to pay money for some other treasury that I didn't want to see and it was dark and big and gold, which I think fits the city- you know, pretty and rich, but you don't feel like you could live here- and they didn't even allow pictures inside, not to mention that the guards were super intimidating, and anyway, I needed to find the church that they had in the Last Crusade, because clearly I have a one track mind when it comes to things in Venice and that one track does not involve keeping up with the time so that my friend isn't stuck outside reading her book and waiting on me (man, are cellphones useful things) while it could, potentially be raining.
Also, the entrance to the church is on ramps because the city floods at high tide.

And there are pigeons.

Here, to make it up to you, I give you a string of picture of churches and a cute little girl holding pigeons, which is the thing to do in San Marco Piazza.



This is actually the side of San Marco.


Front of San Marco.




Indiana Jones Church! San Barnaba. 

See, isn't she precious? Wasn't it worth it for this?
I just can't help myself. I love this lion.
Also, gondoliers.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Venice

It's raining in Venice.

I can hear it quietly pounding away on the stones outside our window, often masked by the sounds of the restaurant next door or children running in the street, shouting in Italian before being shushed by the matronly figure in charge. The rain makes a good backdrop for the musical scene that every Italian sentence creates to my ears. I love listening to the rising and falling of phrases, comparing them to the crescendos and decrescendo, subito pianos and marcatos to which I have grown accustomed.

The rain on the canal is a sight to see as well, each drop adding to the volume of water passing underneath bridges, supporting boats, docks, the city itself. I've heard that it's much prettier to take pictures of the gondoliers when there aren't deformed spheres of water falling from the sky, when the light from the sun can pass around the semi-crystalized lattices of water to reflect off the colors of the buildings, the small waves in the water, the paint on the boats. But this is more than likely the Venice I'll know, slipping with every step as I try to find a few of the many places of interest on the maps.

It's frustrating to know that this place, known for its beauty in the sunlight, is going to pass by me in the rain, while I'm still under the fog of a cold and distracted by the next steps on our journey. I need to play catch up, typing up stories from buildings now far distant, but my attention is caught by the sounds outside my window, as it has been for the past two weeks. In short, this city, with its many churches, canals, buildings, shops, stories, people, will become a footnote on the journey of my summer, more than likely the place where I'll complain that the internet was sketchy and the weather was worse.

But quietly, internally, I'll remember the walk in the cold rain that started in the afternoon, jumping over the quickly growing puddles to slide on the stones of the wayward streets of a city that will, for these years of my life anyway, remain a mystery to me. I'll remember the alleys that deadend in a canal, the open space that leads to the river and a view of the other islands surrounding this place, this city on stilts above the Po river, feeding Italy with the water flowing beneath houses and homes.

Ah, Venice.

[Edit: It was actually quite nice the next day and we went to St. Mark's Square and I saw the basilica and then I found the church that they used in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and I took quite a few pictures which will soon be on Facebook. And then it rained again. The end.]

Vienna to Venice

I'm a little saddened to think that trains will have less magic for me after this trip.

After all, I've spent a substantial amount of time jumping from city to city on trains, watching the countryside sweep by as I sit stationary, doing my best to be more philosophical about the whole ordeal than thinking of Chocolate Frogs, Dementors and Scabbers. I've even spent the night on a train, in the rather cramped space of the middle bunk in a 6 bunk sleeper. I think I would slept better in a seat.

I just couldn't get to sleep, first watching Austria slip by, then staring intently overhead to watch the first stars come out. I was convinced I was going to see wonderful stars this night, since trains clearly travel through the country, where there are no city lights to block out the nightsky. I got frustrated with my space and the late setting sun and so eventually I quit straining and rolled over, ready to let my eyes rest for an extended period of time.

Something woke me up hours later. It was much darker in the cabin- maybe they had dimmed the lights in the hall. I rolled onto my back because the arm I had been sleeping on was tingling, asleep, and opened my eyes to look around.

Holy. Everything.

You could see the Milky Way. There were so many stars. I lay back and stared at the wonder of it all, unsure of my bearings in an unfamiliar slice of the sky. Have you ever seen it, a darkened sky on a clear night, with no human light to drown out what must be the divine light reaching us from so far away? Do you know what our galaxy looks like from our home, the permanent cloud in the sky that so many legends have been told about? Have you ever seen so many stars that the sky doesn't become a simple connect the dots but instead offers you shading, a billion brilliant lights twinkling more spectacularly than any photograph or word can capture? Have you seen it?

I remember each and every time I've seen a sky like this. Twice, before I could point out a single full constellation, I lay underneath a sky like this. Once, I stood outside a huge telescope, pointing a smaller optical instrument at the newly risen Juptier, looking at its cloud bands and moons. You could see the galaxy rising up like steam from Sagittarius and even though I laughed at the teapot idea then, I sat amazed at the stories that had been told about these dots in the black above us.

Once, I lay on a mountain side with some of the best people I've ever met, watching shooting stars fly against the black. This is one of my favorite memories, one I hide away and glance at only when the real stars begin to compare to the ones I saw on that night. Even though it was summer, we lay under blankets to guard against the cold of a sunless sky, and prayed. I prayed for the brokeness I'd seen in people, in lives, in all these problems around us, staring into a sky so untouched by it all. I can believe it, you know, when I'm looking at the stars, that there's something bigger than all the things that tie us to this tiny little planet. It's awesome and awful, to look and think of these objects so distant from us, yet powerful enough to remind us nightly of their existence. They're a beautiful, beautiful reminder of the things in the universe that we can't own, can't touch, can't steal, can't ruin. We can only block them out, forget to be reminded, stop our children from seeing the grandeur of the sky they've inherited.

I used to think knowing the constellation stories would ruin the sky for me. If I knew the pictures others had seen, I would lose the ability to see my own stories up there. But as I lay on the train and watch the sky change as we rounded a corner, I picked out the Bigger Dipper and then the rest of Ursa Major, then  Ursa Minor, then Draco. I waited for the sky to turn again to better see Lyra or Aquilla or Cygnus.

For thousands of years, people have seen these stars. People from every culture have told stories about the things they see in the sky above them, the stars being so constant a company of companions as to become ordinary. For thousands more, a sky like this will hide behind our clouds of light, blocking us from this universal sharing. We'll forget. And we'll be quite surprised when we see it again. Amazed. Awed.

And so, in a way, the nighttime sky, this plethora of stars against the black, is like the Church. The real Church, the functioning Body of Christ that the early followers of Jesus heard about from a converted Jew named Paul. For many years, there were stories told, dots connected among the truths we knew. Learning continued, and other people saw the dots connected in a different way, but the tradition of the learning grew and the studying continued. Then we allowed it to become clouded by the things we've created, and so we've blocked out the things that might be shared by all, the good and wonderful things that remind us of our place in all the bigness that is out there. And it amazes us when we see it again, when we see the Church actually working among the churches.

But it doesn't much matter which stories you learned from the sky. I don't think any one grouping of stars is any more correct than another. It's all we've got, really, the ways we reflect ourselves in the black. And I don't feel so afraid anymore about knowing more about the stories people told. I knew where I was going in the sky as I found my familiar constellations, but I was still left to wonder about the many more hiding amist the black. There's so many things left to learn, so many stories to tell, to teach, to share.

The Church in the Sky.