I have to have a statement of affirmation like for times like these.
Goodness, I'm in a cold sweat just thinking about it.
I'm going to try to explain Catalan Gothic to you, as opposed to the other kinds of Gothic architecture you'll see around the continent of Europe. (Note: most of my information comes from two wikipedia articles and a neat site called Sacred Destinations where I actually get a lot of my stuff from. I'll check it with a library when I get to back to Chapel Hill.)
And I have no experience with art or architecture history, which means I'm probably going to sound dumb. Sorry for sounding dumb. But here goes nothing!
Here, be momentarily distracted by a picture of a cathedral. |
Gothic isn't actually the word they used when they talked about the buildings we call Gothic at the time they were being built. They were being built in the "French" style then, and you do have a lot of your canoncial examples of Gothic architecture in France. Pointed arches, flying buttresses, awesome stained glass and rose windows, heavy decoration on most of the surfaces and twin towers at the facade of the church (these actually came from processions during Holy Week- you'd mount one set of stairs to be symbolically crucified and you'd descend the other to symbolically go to the grave). They only started calling it Gothic in the Renaissance or later, and even then, they called it that as a bit of a diss, equating Gothic with barbarian vandals.
So you take that kind of style, with the big churches, etc (that I have since seen a lot more of, so it seems that I did this whole thing backwards, especially if you think that I saw a lot of Renaissance before this) and you tweak it a bit in Catalonia, which is a region in Spain, like Andalusia, etc. You're mostly going to see this in Barcelona. The churches built in this style were built on that borderline between the Gothic and Renaissance stages in architecture and in particular, Barcelona Cathedral and Santa Maria del Mar, the two that I saw, were built by the same king- King Jaume II. Of course, this was built in a time when this part of Spain had a lot of influence- just as the cathedral in Seville was built after the Reconquest, these projects were started after a growth in power; Santa Maria del Mar was built after a victory at sea in 1324.
The main differences you're going to see in these churches are a lack of flying butresses, which, if you haven't seen 'em yet, you're not going to miss them; less emphasis on stained glass, which I could see; more somber decorations, so much less of the "let's carve every surface with a saint!" impulse that you'll see on other exteriors; equal height naves- you're not going to see the height of the church change at any stage; and less noticeable or non-existent transepts, the cross bars of the church. The bell towers that go along with these churches, if there are any, are generally separate buildings.
OK, that's done. I can break out of the nervousness. Barcelona Cathedral is in the gothic section of Barcelona and has one of my top ten favorite gargoyles.
Imagine a Howard Dean yell coming from this unicorn. |
It's dedicated to Santa Eulalia, who's also a patron saint of Barcelona. She was just a kid when she was martyred by the Romans in the fourth century, burned at the stake. Her crypt is right below the main altar.
Barcelona's cathedral has a stand-alone choir like Seville's, but it's also got a glass door, so you're not entire blocked by the structure if you're stuck in the back.
Do you see the door? I do. |
With geese.
No one's sure how they got there, but they might symbolize the saint's virginity or the former glory of Rome. I'm sure they're delighted about both of these options. |
Now Santa Maria del Mar is a prime example of Catalan Gothic.
Pretty low-key stained glass windows. |
Not overly-decorated. |
Pretty much everything I listed goes here; most noticeably, the lack of decorations. This is also due, in part, to the burning of the interior that happened during the Spanish Civil War. The walls are still blackened in places.
It was actually a charming little church. Not busy, and you could see your way around the church. Quiet. How many of the people here knew that they were looking at a prime example of a specific type of Gothic architecture? How many of them would have cared? This is something that's really struck me while I've been going around- most of the people who are here saw a pretty building and stopped in. The story the church has to tell stays hidden until you go looking for it, unless you're looking at the darkened patches on the walls. The signs on the wall describing the facets of the church go mostly unread when they're around at all.
It just seems like there's a lot of good stories that are just getting missed out on.
yayyy geese!
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